Trying to connect to the community I tried going to the YMCA with a climbing gym in it and perhaps hook up with some climbers there. I managed to get some directions to Beacon Hill which is just off the Kowloon Tong station View Larger Map

Taxi driver [...]]]> I didnt  exactly have a good experience climbing in Hong Kong. In fact, I didnt have any experience at all. The weeks prior to my trip there I made numerous attempts at contacting the climbing community there which yielded no result. Emails went unanswered and requests for more information was also to find no response.

Trying to connect to the community I tried going to the YMCA with a climbing gym in it and perhaps hook up with some climbers there. I managed to get some directions to Beacon Hill which is just off the Kowloon Tong station
View Larger Map

Taxi driver dropped me off at some juvenile correctional facility and the guards were very surprised and confused when I walked up to the reception. Despite its british past, people are not too keen to speak english here and I always find that I get passed from one person to another when speaking in english. I would have expected that most people here speak english, it being commonwealth and all. Apparently not. The moment you open your mouth to speak english, people become immediately more conservative.

The same happened at the climbing site of Beacon Hill. Climbers werent all too forthcoming about someone new being around and werent too keen to chat. So i didnt manage to do any climbing in Hong Kong. But I did take some pictures. From the juvenile correctional facility (who’s reception guy didnt know anything about any climbing areas) I walked behind the centre and up this little road toward the hills in the hopes that I might find some climbers there. I was walking for some 20 minutes when I spotted up ahead in the distance a rock face and some climbers. Getting from the road to the climbing area took me quite some time of getting lost in unclearly marked trails that disappear into nowhere. Under the really hot summer sun of Hong Kong, I was severely dehydrated by the time I got to the base of the rock and found the climbers.

If anyone has gone to Hong Kong for climbing, I would appreciate some more pictures and perhaps any words regarding it as I cant relate a first hand experience myself. Any contributions welcomed.

Regards,
putra

The Noble House  stands slightly obscure amidst the madness of the main Catba harbour street called 1/4. The 2nd floor of the Noble house is home to SloPony adventure company. Run by two American climbers Onslo Carrington and Erik Ferjentsik (a.k.a “Pony”… I never got round to asking why) whom have (in their love for east asia and climbing) come down to Vietnam and invested their time, money and energy to develop climbing routes around Catba island and the surrounding islands.

On a backpacking trip across Vietnam, I arrived at Catba island at a very [...]]]>

The Noble House and SloPony Adventures

The Noble House  stands slightly obscure amidst the madness of the main Catba harbour street called 1/4. The 2nd floor of the Noble house is home to SloPony adventure company. Run by two American climbers Onslo Carrington and Erik Ferjentsik (a.k.a “Pony”… I never got round to asking why) whom have (in their love for east asia and climbing) come down to Vietnam and invested their time, money and energy to develop climbing routes around Catba island and the surrounding islands.

On a backpacking trip across Vietnam, I arrived at Catba island at a very bad time. Erik had just returned from getting married in Hue, and everyone else had also just returned from the wedding, and therefore all organisation was very tricky with Erik’s guests still being around and needing attention. To make it worst, the weekend was the first weekend following the two day national holidays of April 30th (South Vietnam Liberation Day) and May 1st (Labour Day), and so many Vietnamese have taken their families on a long weekend vacation to none other than Ha Long bay and Catba island. Accomodation was sparse and expensive. Accommodating their own wedding guests had been a problem, and I couldnt find any place to stay, and so on the floor of the Noble House I lay to sleep one night at the kind permission of the owner. I am told that on normal days, Catba island is a quiet and peaceful town where accommodation is cheap and the crazy crowds I saw on the waterfront till late at night are absent.Its hard to imagine that.

Catba island is reachable from Hanoi through the public bus from Hoang Long company. More detailed directions can be found from SloPony’s website here. It has accessibility problems and is a little bit more complicated to get to for Malaysian climbers compared to the mecca of Krabi. First you have to fly into Hanoi, which from LCCT Malaysia takes some 3 hours, then you have to get from the airport into the city which takes an hour and 2USD on the Vietnam Airlines shuttle, or 12USD on a taxi. Then you have to get a to the Luong Yen bus station and catch the Catba bus at either 5:20AM, 7:20AM, 11:20AM, and 1:20PM daily. Taking another 3 hours by car, then a 45 minute boat ride, followed by a further 30 minute bus ride to Catba town. This is where SloPony is located. Then you have to rent a bike or hire a driver to take you to the crags which is another 30 minutes away. Sounds like a lot of work.

Butterfly Valley

The Noble House is a three story shop owned by an Australia guy called Peter (Thanks for the correction Andy). He now resides on Catba island and in his building there is a restaurant on the ground floor, a climbing / adventure company on the 2nd floor, a bar on the 3rd floor and a youth hostel somewhere too. I didnt actually manage to see where the youth hostel was. At their base at the Noble House, SloPony Adventures organises their tours to the various climbing locations.

At time of print, Catba and surroundings have some 45 bolted routes in various locations. The routes are not near the Noble House, and a bit of travelling on a bike or taxi is required to get to the crags of Butterfly Valley. The bike journey took some 30 to 40 minutes to reach a beautiful valley. The map to this location can be found from the SloPony guide book. Apart from Butterfly valley there are several other locations with a few climbs. The other climbs are reachable by boat to be arranged through SloPony adventures.

Deep water solo (DWS) opportunities are abundant, but unfortunately heavily dependent upon the tide which varies in height through the month and through the year. The height of the tide can vary 3 feet, which will affect whether or not you can get on the rock from the boat and also the safety aspect as well. Do call up SloPony before planning a trip specifically for DWS in order to avoid disappointment.

Onslo Carrington and Erik Ferjentsik

Speaking to Erik and Slo and also Brian (just started working with SloPony) on their ventures here in Catba island, they have said that they have used 12mm thick 60mm long expansion bolts on their crags (as pictured in slideshow below). They plan to bolt 60 new routes every year to add to the existing 45. I found Erik, Slo and Brian to be very friendly and accommodating despite the mad rush of restarting business after the wedding, amidst rush hour holiday season. Rental of equipment is available from harness to shoes to ropes so you dont have to bring your own if you dont want to. And if you dont happen to meet climbers hanging around Catba at SloPony’s (like I did) you can choose to hire a local Vietnamese climber belay guy to go with you. It costs some 480 000 Dong a guide a day (roughly 90 ringgit).

The other areas to climb are located on other smaller islands and secluded beaches accessible by boat. There are also plenty of DWS to try as mentioned previously… also accessible by boat. I managed to climb the Polish Pillar while I was there which is a only a 5b but on trad. We reached the Polish Pillar by boat organised by SloPony, and then rowed to the base of the pillar by basket boat, and using a ladder reached the raised base where we started the climb. It was fairly easy, but the view was spectacular. In the right conditions, you can even jump off the pillar into the water, but from a lower ledge.

Polish Pillar

Other costs include a government imposed day pass for all climbers costing 30 000 dong a day (6 ringgit) and an optional 50 000 dong (10 ringgit) prepared lunch option at Butterfly valley by the local residence there. This is well worth it as the crag is far from any restaurants and the food served is absolutely delicious, and should just be tried simply because it is good. Rental of a bike to the crag and back again would cost some 70 000 dong (14 ringgit).

Yummy spring roles

I believe Catba island climbing is a great place once you are there. It has a mix of activities to do like canoeing and island hoping, biking around the island or sunning by the beach, that makes things a bit more interesting, and so would appeal to a mixed crowd of vacationeers who dont exactly want to spend all the time on the rocks. It being a bit more complicated to get to as well will be a discourager to the more focused group of climbers who simply want to get to a place quickly and do as much climbing as they can. Krabi will still hold a special place in the hearts of such Malaysian climbers.

However if you are in a mixed crowd (climbers and non climbers) and want a more relaxed atmosphere and to engage in hikes, and a bit of climbing and canoeing, island hoping and just taking in some sun, you could head down to Catba. The crowds are thinner and the absence of thousands of climbers as is the case with Krabi during peak season will enhance the beauty of the islands. The downside is the length of time to get there, and the subsequent additional length of vacation to take, which in Malaysia may be a problem.

I think i will definitely return to Catba for a holiday, or as a part of a larger longer holiday around the region. But I am unlikely to return just for climbing alone, at least not at present. With the growing number of routes in the area (60 new routes a year or more) and perhaps the improving ease of travel to Catba, perhaps to a nearer airport, maybe the island will be a more compelling choice in years to come.

I shall leave a copy of SloPony’s guide book of Vietnam climbing at the Camp5 gym for whomever is interested to have a look. Dont walk away with it though. Leave it for others to read also…. and for me to take back if I go that way again.

Regards,
Zee

Slideshow below:

I hope that those who have been there could submit pictures and videos and comment on this bouldering location. It is much appreciated.

Below the Map to Teluk Cempedak.

View Larger Map

Wondering if there are any possibilities for climbing i discovered the web and i found this informative homepage. I got in touch with the putra climb community and  i was able to find climbing partners too.

Camp5 First i have been in Camp5 together with Zee. Camp5 is a big gym with a lot of possibilities. After some sportive activities we went together with friends of Zee for dinner and to discuss some holiday and – of course – climbing [...]]]> Escaping from a a very cold and snowy winter here in the European Alps i decided to book a flight to Kuala Lumpur.

Wondering if there are any possibilities for climbing i discovered the web and i found this informative homepage. I got in touch with the putra climb community and  i was able to find climbing partners too.

Camp5
First i have been in Camp5 together with Zee. Camp5 is a big gym with a lot of possibilities. After some sportive activities we went together with friends of Zee for dinner and to discuss some holiday and – of course – climbing topics.

Batu Caves – Nanyang wall
“Which outdoor climbing facilities are there in KL??” i wondered. Limestone rocks near the touristic attraction of Batu Caves is the answer.
Batu Cave can be reached by bus. If you are not (yet) used to the tropical climate, then i recommend to go there in the early morning. Anyway most climbers come there around 11am.
Phang, Glenn from Singapore, Chang and me had some good climbs there.

Ipoh
On the next day i decided to leave KL. After visiting Taman Negara and the Chameron Highlands i had a stop in Ipoh. Be sure to bring your Camp5 ID card when you want to climb in Lost Tambun. You will get a discount for the entrance fee.

My special thanks go to Phang and especially to Zee.
Phang is climbing since one year – same as me. But his overwhelming progress is really worth mentioning .
With the helping hand of Zee i could get in touch with friendly and very expirienced climbers. I will always remember this nice climbers community in KL!

Hopefully this is not my last visit in Malaysia. The hospitality of the locals will always be in my mind.
Malaysia really rocks! Have a good climb!

Facebook me whenever you visit Austria!

Nanyang is a good place for climbers to go and climb on the weekends because of the crowd gathered there, especially if you a loner and dont have a belay buddy. Plenty of climbers there [...]]]> A weekend after the Charity Climb, Nanyang was full again of climbers doing new and old routes. The usual kings of nanyang, GreenTrekkerz were there in their numbers, setting up hammocks and lazing under the shade of the rocks. There was a good mix of people there, experts like Shang and Shiwen together with newbies and newcomers being thought the ropes and given the run down.

Nanyang is a good place for climbers to go and climb on the weekends because of the crowd gathered there, especially if you a loner and dont have a belay buddy. Plenty of climbers there willing to help. Its also very relaxed. GreenTrekkerz pride themselves on their very laid back attitude to climbing. I noticed a lot of lying around and sitting around talking…. interspersed with these were some climbing done. Great comraderie.

The routes are moderately hard… there is a good range. It is nicely shielded from the sun or rain. The only complaint I have is that the routes are not as high… but if you are happy having a nice leisurely afternoon of short climbs and being out with friends…. it cant be beat. Plus its short distance to the nearby eating areas is a plus.

But its a great atmosphere and many a good climbing friend can be found and made here. I shall go back to Nanyang often. See you all there.

20090117 Nanyang Full House

The madrasah has rooms to rent for climbers who would like to climb at Volleyball court and surrounding areas of Batu Caves. Accessibility to the [...]]]> The Madrasah Al-Rahman (or Relgious school of Rahman) is situated next to Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur, in the section called Volleyball court. This enclosed area has been maintained by the authorities of the madrasah and there are some active construction work going on at present to further improve the facilities there. The place is clean and well looked after, and there is also some prep work at a cave to make it into a restaurant.

The madrasah has rooms to rent for climbers who would like to climb at Volleyball court and surrounding areas of Batu Caves. Accessibility to the other walls is within walking distance… like Nanyang, Roadshow and Comic wall. Nyamuk is a bit further away at about a 20 minute walk and Damai, further still at 30 or 40 minute walk. However driving is fast and getting a taxi wont be too difficult as assured to us by the operator of the facilities. The taxi can be arranged.

There are a few restaurants within walking distance of the madrasah, mostly malay and southern indian (mamak) food.

The rooms are with bunk beds, two bunk beds per room, fitting 4 per room. There are budget rooms with a shared toilet, and a pail for your shower costing some 20 ringgit per person per night. These rooms are right next to the road and so may be quite noisy. Left is a picture of the budget rooms next to the road.

The toilet and budget rooms are shown below.

Alternatively there are rooms within the madrasah compound itself. On the 2nd and 3rd floor are rooms that fit 2 bunk beds each with an adjoining toilet and shower that is in much better condition, since it is newly renovated. This is the best option for a group of 4 or 8 people to take the 2nd floor and 3rd floor to themselves. These other rooms face the climbing area and is much cosier than the budget rooms downstairs. The rooms are made of wood and there are stand fans there to keep cool.

The management of the madrasah charges 5 ringgit to climb at the Volleyball area for the upkeep of the place, which is a fairly low and reasonable price. Night climbing is also allowed and possible due to some limited illumination there. You will have to bring your own sheets and pillow case though as they do not supply this. But if you come in a big group and would like to do a BBQ, the madrasah will accomodate this at a place set aside. It goes without saying though that no pork is allowed to be BBQ’d at the islamic school and though it wasnt stated clearly, I would think no alcohol as well. So…. no drunken disorderly behaviour here.

Below a picture of Encik Ismail who runs the madrasah climbing area.

It is a general truism in life that things go in and out of fashion. Crags are no exception to this and some of us have been around long enough to witness the cyclical blessings of the KL based rock climbing public fall on the various walls in Batu Caves. Crags that are in fashion tend to be more well cared for, like any favourite child, they’re livelier, better equipped, brighter and generally less grubby when compared to neglected climbing areas.

Nanyang has been through more ‘deaths’ and revivals than the rest, probably because it is one of the oldest crags [...]]]>

It is a general truism in life that things go in and out of fashion. Crags are no exception to this and some of us have been around long enough to witness the cyclical blessings of the KL based rock climbing public fall on the various walls in Batu Caves. Crags that are in fashion tend to be more well cared for, like any favourite child, they’re livelier, better equipped, brighter and generally less grubby when compared to neglected climbing areas.

Nanyang has been through more ‘deaths’ and revivals than the rest, probably because it is one of the oldest crags in Batu Caves. It’s fallen out of favour several times over the last few years for reasons of neglect, nearby construction works, limited access, sanitary problems and the opening of several other walls (Damai and Nyamuk).

Through the diligent efforts of Man Dyno (the most hard working bolt-meister in Malaysia) and the GreenTrekkerz (GTZ) gang, Nanyang is currently experiencing a resurgence in popularity, or a rebirth of sorts. There are eighteen new routes, new anchors, a new access path which avoids the quagmire in front of the temple and they cleaned the place up! Credit where it’s due, they have done a good job of it. The new routes range from 5b to an possible 8a, although most of them fall in the 5c – 7a range. The new routes are reasonably well bolted with expansion bolts and the anchors look solid (two bolts, a chain and two snapgate biners).

The Nanyang revival was announced to the world on the 10th and 11th of January 2009 with a fundraising “Fun Charity Climb”, organized by the above mentioned GreenTrekkerz. The turnout was said to be “excellent” with more than a hundred people attending over the course of the two days to raise funds for the Kirtash Handicapped and Disabled Children’s Home. The even raised RM3375 for the charity organization, more than double the original target of RM1500.

The atmosphere of the whole event was fun and convivial, rather reminiscanet of a baby shower or child’s full moon celebration. All in all, a rather wonderful way to celebrate the rebirth of a much loved crag.

——-
Contributed by Fang

Thanks to Akandos for the pictures

Fun Charity Climb Location: Nanyang Wall, Batu Caves Date : 10th and 11th Jan 2009 Time: 11am – 4pm Fees : RM 20 / pax (All proceeds will go to the charity)

Kirtarsh Handicapped and Disabled Children’s Home This centre was established in Bukit Beruntung with 2 residents but today, the centre is [...]]]> There will be a “Fun Charity Climb” organised by GreenTrekkerz (a voluntary association of friends who have set out to do nature activities) on the 10th and 11th Jan 2009 (Saturday and Sunday) at Nanyang Wall to help raise funds for the Kirtarsh Handicapped And Disabled Children’s Home.

Fun Charity Climb
Location: Nanyang Wall, Batu Caves
Date : 10th and 11th Jan 2009
Time: 11am – 4pm
Fees : RM 20 / pax (All proceeds will go to the charity)

Kirtarsh Handicapped and Disabled Children’s Home
This centre was established in Bukit Beruntung with 2 residents but today, the centre is supporting up to 47 residents whose background range from children with Down Syndrome to under privileged children from crisis homes and old folks, with ages between 3 to 84 years old. The purpose of this centre is to provide vocational training, special education, shelter, food, medication and love. This is a non-profit, non-political and non-religious centre.

Apart from relying on generous contributors, the upkeep of the centre is through sales of souvenirs designed and hand made by the children such as key-chain holders, road tax stickers, pens, posters, bookmarks and children educational materials.

They are in need of a new home to cater for more children. They also need a van to ferry the children to and from school, clinic and outings. Their monthly expenses average at close to RM14,000 per month.

Do your part for charity!
Contact GreenTrekkerz NOW to register for the Fun Charity Climb!

Invite your friends, colleagues and family to try it out for a good cause. Suitable for first-timers or avid climbers with a range of easy routes to 7+ routes.

For enquiries or registration, call or, SMS your name and mobile number stating ‘Charity Climb’ to:
Meng (aka Poksy): 012 329 6239

example of an SMS: “Adam 012 345 6789 Charity Climb”

Hurry! Limited spaces available. See you there!