Belaying Partner Safely, Part 1

Elementary Belaying mistakes and the 3-leg-logic

by Walter Britschgi

Note: the following has been translated from the following German source:

http://www.bergundsteigen.at/file.php/archiv/2004/2/64-69%20(sicher%20partner%20sichern,%20teil%201).pdf

If you wish to comment on the translation please email climb@camp5.com

Indoors climbers are being exposed to a rapidly expanding range of “belay devices”. Walter

Britschgi of “Gaswerks”, Zurich, one of the largest indoor climbing facilities in the world and

has been observing Belayers very closely for several years. He has observations identify

fundamental deficiencies. As such, the search for a methodical approach to improve this so

important [...]]]>

This is an English translation of an article by Walter Britschgi featured in Bergundsteigen 2/04 page 64-69

Belaying Partner Safely, Part 1

Elementary Belaying mistakes and the 3-leg-logic

by Walter Britschgi

Note: the following has been translated from the following German source:

http://www.bergundsteigen.at/file.php/archiv/2004/2/64-69%20(sicher%20partner%20sichern,%20teil%201).pdf

If you wish to comment on the translation please email climb@camp5.com

Indoors climbers are being exposed to a rapidly expanding range of “belay devices”. Walter

Britschgi of “Gaswerks”, Zurich, one of the largest indoor climbing facilities in the world and

has been observing Belayers very closely for several years. He has observations identify

fundamental deficiencies. As such, the search for a methodical approach to improve this so

important action “rope hauling – rope giving” has led to the 3-leg-logic.

The Attention Myth

“Attention while belaying the partner is the most important thing!”

This myth has prevented the climber from observing the absolute basics of safety; the

actual handling of all safety devices, including the HMS safety knot. With professional

handling, of course combined with the indispensible attention, we can in future avoid half of

all rope team accidents in indoor climbing gyms.

The Gaswerks Investigation:

The Climbing Center Gaswerk is suitable for such investigations, since 50 to 500 climbers

are visiting daily. This makes per year about 100,000 visitors with an estimated 300,000

climbing hours.

A widespread opinion is that climbing accidents in halls predominantly occur by inattention

and too much slack rope. By carefully analyzing the accidents that occurred in the Gaswerk,

we come to other conclusions. Over a period of three years investigations were conducted

on climbing accidents that required consultation by a medically trained person. Of a total 37

accidents, 31 involved roped climbing; the remaining 6 were involved rope free climbing

(bouldering).

Accidents with rope

16 of the 31 accidents, involving roped climbing, the belayer held the fall of the climber;

injuries sustained were mostly minor.

15 of the 31 accidents, the belayer failed to hold the fall of the climber, resulting in the

climber hitting the ground (or in one case landing on the belayer); injuries sustained ranged

from mild to severe. The belaying devices in use included: 8 x HMS, 6 x Grigri, 1 x Figureof-

Eight.

The doctrine upside down

Based on standard presumption, one would expect the 15 ground falls to be caused by lack

of attention, excess slack or wrong handling of the ropes. But this was not the case. The

facts revealed that 14 out of 15 accidents were caused by incorrect handling of the safety

equipment (in one case, the exact cause could not be identified). Thus, the wrong handling

of safety equipment has nothing to do with “inattention”, but to acting out of habit! This

shows us once again that we have to question doctrines again and again. Only this way can

we begin to make climbing safer.

Do accidents open our eyes when we experience them ourselves?

When a rope team is involved in an accident, both partners are typically able to give a

detailed report of what has happened. But they are not able to draw the correct conclusion

out of it. This is because they stick to the general assumption that most of the accidents are

caused by inattention while belaying. The result is that the belaying person feels guilty and

does not question anything else. He/she will therefore not be able to learn from the lesson.

What we absolutely need to know!

Improper equipment handling cannot be compensated by increased attention, because it is

subject to acting out of habit. This finding is backed by another investigation done in 2001,

in which I observed the belaying behavior of 180 randomly selected subjects. 50% of the

subjects belayed properly; the other 50% took the risk of not being able to control the rope

in the event of an unexpected fall. It struck me that subjects belaying style was always the

same, at whatever wall they climbed, that is: always right or always wrong. This means that

the way to belay – according to the habit – is always the same, depending on the way one

was once trained. We can benefit from “habit” when we train the climbers from the

beginning to a technically perfect belaying.

Training means: to closely observe the belaying practice of the new climber and

immediately addressing mistakes. The prerequisite is, however, that many trainers, who

themselves do not properly belay, recognize the gaps in their knowledge and are willing to

fill them.

My rope partner – my teacher

Most beginners receive basic training through professional institutions/instructors. Following

which, there is a growing desire, to also get to know other skills.

Often the climbing partner comes the trainer; this can be dangerous. We do not address

the professional capacity of the climbing partner to act as a trainer, but rather the number

of facilitation of the lesson and number of persons involved. Logistically to teach in a format

of only two people, the teacher and the studentm is not sound. A third person is definitely

needed to watch the climbing. At times the student is overextended while the trainer is

climbing. This leads to an extremely dangerous situation; the student is left alone, even if

the instructor is visible and can hear him.

The accident statistics of the climbing center Gaswerk confirms very clearly the risk due to

the lack of a third control person.

Of 10 climbers who fell to the ground, between 2001 and 2002, three were acting as a

trainer of the belaying person, reflecting an astonishing 30%. Instead of with a simulation

rope the training was done with a real rope from the beginning at which the “instructor”

finally climbed.

Roughly estimated, about 1-2% of the visitors in the climbing gym comprise of “teacher -

student” partnerships. Thus identifying a significant minority of climbers whom are highly

likely to crash to the ground.

Error Causes with HMS (refers to the drawings)

1. Wrong basic posture (according to Swiss doctrine; note ed.): To hold the brake hand

lightly downwards is dangerous, as this might lead to tangling and tangling might lead

to the release of the rope from the carabiner, unless it is screwed up. It does not matter

at which side the carabiner opening has been placed.

Even if the carabiner remains closed, loosening the HMS knot will lead to considerably

less brake force.

2. The cross hand technique demonstrated here is currently practiced most. To mix ropes

up can never be ruled out. However, more important is that this method of HMS-top

rope belaying misleads to using the Two-finger-grip: for a short moment the brake

rope is only held with two fingers and at this very moment one cannot hold a falling

climber. Holding the partner rope gets at that moment more priority than the much

more important brake rope that is only held with two fingers.

3. Slacky open hands are a widespread bad habit. The ropes are elegantly juggled back

and forth. Most climbers are not aware of this danger. An unexpected fall can lead to

the loss of control of the brake rope

The 3-leg-logic

Based on these long-term observations and accident analysis, I developed the 3-leg-logic,

which is comparable to a 3-leg table. None of the three “legs” may be violated, or else to

the table or the climber falls to the ground. Safety equipment and handling must comply

with the 3-leg-logic: the principle of the brake hand, brake mechanics and reflexes.

The brake hand principle

Golden Rule: When belaying the climbing partner, at least one hand must hold the brake

rope cross handed.

To guarantee control over the rope flow, the brake rope must be tightly led to the device by

the brake hand. Loosening the brake rope for a fraction of a second can already have fatal

consequences.

Not only for all dynamic belay devices (HMS, Eight, Tubular, etc.) is the brake hand principle

absolutely essential but also in all so-called semi-automatic devices (GriGri, Tre, etc). The

use of none of the semi-automatic devices can guarantee that in particular situations and

with different rope types the brake mechanism can be blocked.

The brake hand principle was not sufficiently given attention to when belaying devices were

developed. Many of the manuals could therefore be faulty in this respect.

The brake mechanism of the device

Moreover, the proper function of each belaying device can only be guaranteed when the

brake hand – depending on the device – is also correctly positioned. Besides the HMS all

other belaying devices work according to the “bend-brake” principle.

With this method, the rope in the device is led over a small radius, and is thus in case of a

pull sufficiently braked or clamped. The brake hand must, in the event of a fall, hold the

brake rope so that the mechanism of the device can be effective.

For all devices with the clamp brake principle applies: When taking in the rope the brake

rope is led upwards and then immediately downwards again. In the event of an unexpected

tension the belaying person will due to the grip reflex yank the brake hand downwards und

thus hold the falling climber.

Some semi-automatic backup devices show in terms of positioning of the brake hand

tolerance. However, with thin ropes, it is important to hold the brake hand down. Some

devices are also prone to error caused by incorrect threading rope, which can cause a

complete breakdown of the braking mechanism. Holding the brake rope down allows at least

the possibility of a strong grip to save the climber from this worst case scenario.

Human reflexes

Reflexes are firmly fixed protective reactions. Muscles contract without conscious control.

Therefore, the function of belaying equipment should never be opposed to human natural

reflexes.

Don’ts (see drawings)

Error causes

1. When the rope is inserted faulty, the braking force of the device is drastically

decreased. In case of a fall the rope can no longer be held.

2. In some countries, holding down the device is taught. Experts agree that in case

of terrifying moments one tends to tighten the grip. Consequently, the blocking is

suspended and the rope can slip through the device unhampered. Danger of a

grounding is very great when the brake rope is not held in one’s hand.

3. Holding the Grigri in the palm is especially dangerous, as doing so the brake rope

is neglected. Climbers who want to belay with this method are mistaken when they

think that they can grab the brake rope with their brake hand fast enough.

4. Releasing with the thumb. With this often used handling the belaying person

releases the self blocking. The brake rope is completely neglected while doing so.

Numerous near-accidents and some severe accidents have resulted from this

practice.

Of fundamental importance in our area is the grasp reflex: As soon as the belaying person

feels that the climber is falling and feels that the rope is going to be ripped out of his hands,

he clasps the rope with his hands and pulls it in addition to that towards his body

independent from the fact whether he is startled or not. If the belaying person is startled,

the grasp reflex is even more pronounced. Whatever is in the hand is grabbed frantically.

This explains why belaying persons often get severe burns when they fail to operate the

device, for example by holding onto the live rope. Numerous examples of accidents have

shown that with a rapid rope release the grasp reflex is stronger than the protecting reflex

(release the “hot” object in order to prevent one’s hands from getting injured).

If the belaying person experiences that something is snatched out of his hands, another

reflex occurs, what we call the “grab-after” reflex; for example, grabbing the running live

rope or grabbing and clasping the Grigri that was snatched away. Even experienced

Belayers succumb to the “grab-after” reflex. When they habitually belay wrongly, they run

the risk of grabbing the wrong part of the rope, or inhibiting the braking mechanism of the

device.

If you are suddenly pulled up off the ground when belaying and thrown to the wall, the

clutching of the rope with one’s hands (clutch reflex) is stronger than the reflex to protect

oneself from crashing to the wall. It needs some practicing to be able to use the legs to

avoid crashing to the wall. The clutch reflex of the belaying person is therefore a natural life

insurance for the climber and therefore an indispensable part of the belaying. You might

read in technical literature or an instructor advises you to simply release half automatic

belaying devices in case of a fall; please note that this is dangerous.

Accident and Error examples (2001-03)

The Climbing Center Gaswerk is predominantly belayed with HMS, Grigri and increasingly

with Tubular. The following examples of accidents and errors refer to these devices.

HMS

At first sight the HMS carabiner makes you believe that it is a simple device. However, in

reality HMS is the most complicated and therefore laborious belaying method in comparison

to all other devices (referring to single-rope applications).

A boy was belaying with the HMS and was carefully watching his very slowly progressing

climbing partner, up to the seventh wall runner. To relax his strained his neck muscles he

looked away for a moment and not up. This moment his partner slipped and fell into the

rope.

The brake rope shot out of his slightly open brake hand so that he could just grasp the

partner rope. This resulted in burns at the belaying person’s hand. The climber fell almost

completely free to the ground, landing on both feet onto the soft gym floor suffer no injury.

The boy blamed himself for not having been attentive. Interrogating him and asking him to

demonstrate his usual belaying habit showed that he occasionally led the rope with relaxed

open hands without getting it straight.

Holding the hand brake low while belaying with HMS (e.g. in Austria instructor doctrine)

promotes above all the formation of tangles in the rope while lowering. Tangles could unclip

the rope from the carabiner, if the carabiner was unlocked or a twistlock-carabiner was

used. In this case the positioning of the carabiner opening is irrelevant. Tangles in the rope

are not only annoying, but especially dangerous in combination with a loose open brake

hand. While lowering with a lot of rope friction in the route, one is particularly inclined to

keep one’s hand open. Observations point to the risk that the rope could jump off the

belaying hand. Investigations of accidents show that it is often difficult to figure out the

exact details. They differ according to perceptions of persons concerned.

In the German speaking region the method for belaying of top-rope climbers with HMS is

taught in a form of cross hand technique; while taking in, both ropes are taken into one

hand while the brake hand lets go and crosses over. One of the common mistakes is to hold

the brake rope with only two fingers. In lead climbing situations, when a bit of rope needs

to be taken in, this dangerous cross hand technique with the two finger-trap is commonly

used again. In combination with a lax open hand this is highly dangerous.

With several lead climbing accidents where crashes to the ground were involved, it is

assumed that these and similar variants of these operating errors were the cause.

Sources of errors with Grigri (refers to the drawings)

5. Holding the release handle laterally – it does not matter if this is done with the

fingertips of the right hand or with the thumb of the left one – is deceiving, because the

grasp reflex in frightening situations might cause the clutching of the device. This fact was

discovered in an interrogation after an accident. The clutching of the Grigri causes the rope

to run freely and in the case of an unexpected fall causes the loss of rope control.

6. Excess slack between device and brake hand: If the rope has excess slack, the

distance of the fall is longer so that falls from a height of 6m cannot be prevented. The

danger lurks in forceful grabbing of the partner rope in frightening situations, as the selfblocking

is not effective.

7. Lowering without active brake hand. A situation that is often observed with

beginners if during lead belaying the brake rope is not held in the hand. Lowering with one

hand often leads to accidents.

Grigri

The Grigri is only then one of the safest devices if all the following findings are observed.

Basically the Grigri has two problem areas: Area 1: rope-giving hand – the hand that that

draws the rope out of the device – and area 2: the brake hand – that is the missing hand at

the brake rope.

An accident example explains the problem areas of Grigri’s: A bulky man was always

belaying attentively the many lead attempts of a petite woman. The route was difficult and

the falls always ended at the same height above the ground. The man belayed the Grigri

while his brake hand clasped the entire device, as if he wanted to press the juice out of a

lemon with his hand. His thumb pointed forward, with the idea that the brake hand would

be at the brake rope immediately, because during the rapid rope giving this was neglected

for a short period of time. At one of these falls, he tried to diminish the height of the fall a

bit. To achieve this, he held the partner rope tighter in his hand and prevented thus the self

blocking mechanism of the device. While the brake hand wanted to grasp the brake rope, so

much rope had already slipped that the woman “slammed” onto the hard ground. This

“grounding” happened in spite of his perfect attention. Climbers who use this belaying

method are mistaken when they think their brake hand is fast enough. Many climbers still

believe that they are able to compensate the problem area “brake hand” by holding the

device low or by laterally holding the release handle. In doing so the problem area of the

rope giving hand is ignored (grasp reflex). On the other hand the existence of the

dangerous grab-after reflex is ignored; this reflex occurs in terrifying moments when the

hand automatically grasps the device. It was discovered during the interrogation after an

accident that the frantically cramping at the Grigri had led to a free rope slipping, which

resulted in loss of rope control and a fall to the ground.

Lowering with the missing brake has led to three accidents in three years. The accidental

one-hand lowering by fully pulling down the release handle occurs normally only with

beginners, who belay their instructor without supervision. In doing so the problem of not

applying the “brake hand” –principle during the lead belaying is also transferred to the

process of lowering.

Sources of error of the Tubular (refers to the drawings)

1. Incorrect hand position. The thumb points away from the devices. Thus the forearm is

twisted as soon as the hand is held down. From this follows that the force for grasping the

rope is less than with normal hand position. Furthermore, this position induces an open

brake hand

2. The HMS is not a tubular. The holding both ropes is dangerous because this way the

brake mechanism of the device cannot operate.

Tubular

Climbers who switch from HMS to a Tubular also inadvertently adopt the habitual handling.

The most commonly observed handling errors is the wrong hand position: the thumb is

away from the device. As a consequence the forearm is twisted, when kept down.

As a result, the force to grab the rope is less powerful than with the normal hand position.

Moreover, with this position one is tempted to use the open brake hand.

Also the holding of both ropes is dangerous, as this way the brake mechanism cannot

operate.

Translation by Grietje Van der Veen Weisselberg and Patrick Andrey

All drawings by Walter Britschgi

Through the years, ALLSports Equipment has gained the rights of SOLE DISTRIBUTORSHIP for many world class products such as:

ALLSports Equipment was incorporated in 1991 in Singapore. ALLSports Equipment has through the years diversified to dealing with the Work Safety Solutions and Training. As such, ALLSports Equipment is the supplier of choice for many military and other non-military organizations in this region. ALLSports Equipment is an equipment supplier for IRATA (Industrial Rope Access Trade Association) companies. ALLsports Equipments-the climbing shop, carry everything from shoes & harnesses to carabiners and personal protective equipments (PPE).

Through the years, ALLSports Equipment has gained the rights of SOLE DISTRIBUTORSHIP for many world class products such as:

1. PETZL (Sports & Work Solutions Equipment) – www.petzl.com

2. BEAL (Ropes – Semi-static & Dynamic) – www.beal-planet.com

3. SOMAIN (Fall Arrest & Safety Fixed Life Line) – www.somain-securite.com

4. FIVE TEN (5-10 Shoes) – www.fiveten.com

5. ENTRE-PRISES Climbing Walls – www.entre-prises.com

6. FADERS – www.faders.es

We have had not the chance for a proper chat with out friends at All Sports and so cannot write a more detailed review of them. We shall await the chance to do so and update this article. For now, please visit them and check out their special bargains.

MAIN SHOWROOM
111 North Bridge Road
#04-64 Peninsula Plaza
Singapore 179098
Tel : +65 6337 7728
Fax : +65 6298 9303
Email : 0464@cyberway.com.sg

ALLSPORTS EQUIPMENT SDN BHD (635524-A),
Lot F226, First Floor Promenade,
1 Utama Shopping Centre,
No. 1, Lebuh Bandar Utama, Bandar Utama,
47800 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, MALAYSIA.
Tel. : 03-7728 0775
Fax : 03-7728 0776
Email : alsports@streamyx.com
Website : http://www.allsports.com.sg

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I have just caught wind of the sale that is occurring at Nomad Adventures. I checked out the deals and wow…. very good bargains.

Everyone should go and check out the deals. I know I will.

Go to the NOMAD adventures website now to check it out.

You can also download their pricelist from their website from here also. Pricelist. The sale is on between 15th-24th December 2008

All this information is taken from the Nomad Adventures site and they have the final say on the deals. Visit them today

Regards, putra

COREZONE located at SS2 Petaling Jaya, Selangor has a large selection of equipment for various outdoor activities. Not restricted to climbing equipment, the shop also stocks equipment for:

The website at http://www.mycorezone.com has a lot of detailed information on equipment they stock, information about their team, activities that they have done, equipment comments and reviews and tips. In short it has a wealth of up to date information making for a very vibrant and active site, that is quite interactive and allows for commenting and feedback. You can write reviews of equipment [...]]]>

COREZONE located at SS2 Petaling Jaya, Selangor
has a large selection of equipment for various
outdoor activities. Not restricted to climbing
equipment, the shop also stocks equipment for:

1. Adventure Racing and Travel
2. Mountain Bike Equipment
3. Mountaineering
4. Paddle and Water Sports
5. Rock Climbing
6. Tactical Rescue
7. Hiking and Trekking

The website at http://www.mycorezone.com has a lot of detailed information on equipment they stock, information about their team, activities that they have done, equipment comments and reviews and tips. In short it has a wealth of up to date information making for a very vibrant and active site, that is quite interactive and allows for commenting and feedback. You can write reviews of equipment and send them suggestions.

The CoreZone team of four has got a wealth of experience in outdoor activity (not including Pug Vader, who has presumably no outdoor experience save to find a nice spot to poo on) and is a gathering of very like minded people who have come together from various other disciplines to be united in their love of the outdoors. It is easy to get excellent recommendations on various equipment to purchase from their very detailed accounts of personal journeys and experience. A trip to COREZONE is more than a shopping trip.. it turns out to be a consultation, and the personal touch of hearing opinions of various scenarios, pros and cons of very practical and real life experience, gives the purchaser a sense of security and comfort that the person selling the equipment, knows what they are talking about and has lots of real world experiences to back up their opinion. It is a real contrast from walking into a shop manned by retail staff  who do not know too much about the sport or perhaps are less experienced. When purchasing equipment for outdoor climbs there is the added risks involved for getting injured, or killed… and consultation on equipment directly from highly experienced people in this field is paramount and well received.

The COREZONE team are outdoor people and as such have a great deal to say (and a lot of weight) with regards to best equipment and best practices climbing and mountaineering outdoors. Their painful and oftentimes dangerous lessons learnt are a great addition to the equipment you purchase.

—————————————————————————————-

We have received an objection from COREZONE with regards to Pug Vader and have agreed to include this small excerpt of him, frankly because we were too afraid to say no….

Pug Vader would like you to note that he is not all about zzzz and poos…he has hiked Bukit Gasing and Chilling more than once…he can swim but also has his very own doggie PFD and hiking boots (doggie product testing – seriously!) haha. He has got his army hat and army jacket too and is not afraid of big dogs. Tried to fight off a Husky even. No kidding.

So, Pug Vader is here for a very special reason. He is going to open up a new outdoor market in Malaysia, eventually. Canine products for the outdoors. Very popular in USA, but not yet as popular in Malaysia.

HAIL PUG VADER HAIL!!!!

—————————————————————————————-

Find below a Google map to COREZONE
Opening Hours

• Mon – Fri: 12:00 noon – 8:30 pm
• Sat & Sun: 12:00 noon – 7:00 pm

Address

42, Jalan SS2/24,
47300 Petaling Jaya,
Selangor, Malaysia.

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Built Stretchmarks Asia, the company whose consultation, design and [...]]]> Camp5 is a popular and well equipped indoor climbing gym, located in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. No regional guide to climbing activities can claim to be complete without referencing this gym. In writing statements from the visiting world cup athletes of 2006, Camp5 is remarked as one of the best climbing gyms in the world. Although no world ranking list has been produced to validate the claim, it’s not difficult to see that Camp5, standing in a 24m glass tower with a 270deg panorama could be well seated in the top ten.

Built Stretchmarks Asia, the company whose consultation, design and manufacture portfolio, includes among other project, Shah Alam Extreme Park and Putrajaya Challenge Park,Camp5 opened its doors to the eager climbing community in December 2005. It is managed by New Zealander Jeremy Peet (picture below), who together with Stretchmarks Asia’s Managing Director Mr Patrick Andrey, (also Founder of BLOCX the company that produced Camp5 walls) have been active in Malaysia’s climbing scene since 2002, having personally funded and development Nyamuk, Malaysia largest bolted crag at Batu Caves, and organized the Mammut Expedition of 2007 that funded the development of new routes in Perlis and Perak.

Camp5 offers 1800 square meters of climbing space including 300sqm of bouldering along with all the luxuries you’d expect in a fitness facility including showers, lockers and ‘eat well’ cafe. The gym also provides Yoga classes on selected times in the week. The routes offer an ideal spread of grades for beginners to seasoned climbers. The sentinel wall section plays host to lead routes as high as 16 meters, with everything from steep overhang to technical slab climbs.

Unfortunately Camp5 does not yet have a roof section in the lead routes (there is a 1 meter roof section in the top roped castle wall area along the gangway) however there are whispers that their long anticipated “final phase” of construction, a free standing tower to be built in the central void space of the glass tower will provide this missing element.

The array of routes available, and the regular route setting (including changes to wall features via the innovative ‘discs’ inserts) ensures for an interesting environment to develop both strength and technique. The boulder cave offers roofs and overhanging routes to practice and train, and this section is the most popular amongst the climbing community, who regularly meet there and challenge each other through new routes they make up. Cries of desperation, exasperation, exultation and adoration regularly emanate from the hollows of cave.

If you are alone and haven’t got a belay buddy, there is the option of the bouldering section, or the three auto belays set up on a 12m wall just by the entrance and reception. There are enough routes there to occupy a climber for hours. Most climbers use this area for warm up, but several take on specific routes as a project and can be found working on a problem for days on end. We know of several Camp5 employees who regularly (in their off times) use the autobelay to keep their endurance up by doing several routes on the up climb and down climb back to back till they are knackered….. and that’s just warm up.

Equipment can be purchased from the in-house shop or rented from the reception. There is a large selection of equipment to buy. In comparison to prices overseas (especially if you’re from Europe or Australia) you will find considerable savings. However if you’re really on a budget it may be worth checking the prices in Singapore as differences in custom duties between Malaysia and Singapore’s sometimes benefit retailers of one country over the other. Camp5 does provide term members special discount privileges for shop purchases. Also, since the climbing community is still very small, it’s worth checking promotions as climbing equipment manufactures typically release new lines each year forcing retailers to discount old stock that’s been collecting dust on the shop shelf. All in all we believe the pricing at Camp5 is competitive and it is up to the purchaser to shop around for the best deals.

Reviewing online forums and general buzz from other climbers, it is clear that from certain quarters there is some contention over the membership fees at Camp5. With some claiming that membership is expensive. When doing so, climbers make this argument in comparison to the Summit Climbing Gym (the other major commercial climbing gym around Kuala Lumpur). However if we consider that Camp5 is located in one of KL’s premier shopping centers, 1-Utama, with an area larger than your average fitness facility it would hardly seem fair to compare its price to that of the Summit Gym. A fairer comparison might be to compare Camp5 fees with those of Fitness First, Celebrity or California Fitness (which are commercial gyms operating within the same shopping complex), after all the overheads probably aren’t much different.

There are several other venues for climbing that require only a nominal fee of a few Ringgit and also some that are free (mostly government facilities that are quite run down, and in some places… dangerous), but none of them are as well maintained and operated as Camp5. It goes without saying that a business has to adjust its pricing to balance the volume of clientele with the demands of operational costs. So the debate between climbers and Camp5 on pricing has to meet an impasse somewhere with give and take on both sides. Camp5 currently (at time of print) charges Adults RM1088 and RM648 and Students RM748 and RM438 respectively for 1 year or 6 month unlimited access. We do a simple analysis as per below:

Safety is obviously a high priority in Camp5, a copy of the current gym rules are presented to every new member; many key rules are also posted around the gym in respective ‘zones’. Whilst these measures have sparked criticism from some climbers, accusing Camp5 of being too draconian in its safety policies, 3 years of high volume traffic, as witnessed on any weekend, and no serious mishap or injury is evidence that the gym policies, good maintenance and safety monitoring, are effective. In the end an injury free record and a database of more than 11550 unique individuals, is proof that Camp5 must be doing something right.

Whilst the recent closure of the Summit climbing gym limited the options for climbers, there are still several other venues for climbing. With Putrajaya’s wall soon to open KL climbers will again have plenty of choice of climbing. Though the convenience of its location, quality routes and service, we can expect that Camp5 will remain a hub for the climbing community for years to come.

Please find the link to their updated 2008 newsletter here:
Link to their Newsletter

Address of Camp5:
Level 5, New Wing,
1-Utama Shopping Centre,
Bandar Utama, Damansara,
Selangor, Malaysia.
Phone: +60 3 7726 0420
Fax: +60 3 7726 0410